If you like the relaxed look and feel of natural furniture straight from the woods with as little processing as possible, you will enjoy making and using a set of twig chairs. Building furniture from sustainable sources is both aesthetically pleasing and environmentally sound. Twig furniture requires little or no painting or staining, and can be created entirely without the use of any power tools. This custom built chair is made to your own body measurements, and will therefore be far more comfortable than any other chair you own. Read on to learn build a twig chair.
Instructions
1. Measure yourself from the floor to the bend of your knee and add 1 inch. Cut four straight pieces that same length from a tree limb, about 3 to 4 inches in diameter. These will be the legs of your chair. Measure yourself from hip to shoulder. Cut two more pieces this length to make the two sides of the chair back.
2. Measure yourself from the bend of your knee to just past the curve of your behind. The seat piece you cut will need to be that deep. While seated, measure yourself from hip to hip and add 2 inches. This is the width you will need for your seat piece. If you are rather thin and other members of your family are larger, cut a piece at least 4 inches wider than your own hips. Cut the seat piece from a large stump Take a section at least 2 inches thick, keeping the irregular shape of the natural growth. If desired, peel off the bark or use a rasp to file it away until all the grain of the wood is exposed. Sand entire piece with coarse, medium and fine grain sandpaper until smooth. Apply three or four coats of clear acrylic deck coating, sanding after each coat. Apply one final coat of acrylic.
3. Cut four mortises in the seat bottom and make four tenons on the tops of each of the leg pieces. Refer to the resources at the end of this article for a tutorial on mortise and tenon joints. Be sure to make the tenons at least 1 1/2 inches deep and the mortises at least 1 1/2 inches long, as this will provide strength for the chair. Be sure to use clear silicone adhesive on each tenon and in each mortise to give extra strength to the joints. If desired, countersink a pilot hole from the top of the seat into the mortise and tenon joint and attach the seat to each leg with a 3-inch wood screw. Countersinking, which allows the screw head to lie flush with the wood when it has been screwed into place, gives a more finished look.
4. Brace the chair legs by cutting two 1-inch diameter pieces, one reaching from the right front leg to the left rear leg underneath the chair, and one reaching from the left front leg to the right rear leg. The mortises for one set of legs will have to be cut 1 inch higher than the mortises for the other set so that they can cross one another diagonally without interference.
5. Being careful to cut the top side mortise joints at least 2 inch toward the center back of the chair seat to avoid hitting the bottom side mortise joints, make mortises 1 1/2 inches deep and make tenons 1 1/2 inches long on the bottom ends of the back rails. Attach with clear silicone adhesive. If desired, countersink a pilot hole from the bottom of the seat into the mortise and tenon joint and attach the seat to each back rail with a three inch wood screw.
6. Construct the back of the chair with grapevines and willow twigs, or use canvas webbing. Measure from shoulder to shoulder along your back to get the correct width for the top and bottom back rails. Use green willow twigs when constructing the back, as they are flexible enough to form the necessary curves to make a comfortable chair. Make a top and bottom rail first, either by winding willow branches or grapevine around the two chair rails and tying it of, or by using canvas webbing attached with wood screws through grommets. Weave the back if desired.
